A Brief History of Bespoke Tailoring in Vietnam
When I was living in Tokyo, expats’ frequent travel destination was Vietnam, returning after a few days on the beach with six bespoke suits, exquisitely tailored, for less than ready to wear retail.
Vietnam’s tailoring tradition is a subtle art form, stitched with threads of colonial influence, indigenous craft, and a modern appetite for precision and personal expression. From the silk streets of Hội An to the sharp silhouettes of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, bespoke tailoring in Vietnam is more than a service; it’s a legacy of resilience, adaptation, and style.
French Influence and Colonial Foundations
Bespoke tailoring in Vietnam began to take shape in the late 19th and early 20th centuries under French colonial rule. French administrators, missionaries, and businessmen brought European sartorial standards with them, particularly the demand for suits, vests, and overcoats.
To meet this demand, local tailors were trained in European cutting techniques, resulting in a hybrid tailoring culture: French-style cuts made by Vietnamese hands using local materials like silk and lightweight cotton. This blend of Western design and Southeast Asian fabric sensibility birthed a distinctive tailoring identity.
The Rise of Hội An: A Silk Road Legacy
While tailoring was present in Hanoi and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), it was the central town of Hội An — once a major port on the Silk Road — that became Vietnam’s bespoke tailoring capital. With a tradition of silk trading and textile expertise, Hội An embraced tailoring as tourism expanded in the late 20th century. Tailors there became renowned for their speed (often producing suits in 24 hours or less), affordability, and range of customizable designs.
Expats and travelers from around the world still descend on Hội An (or Hanoi’s Old Quarter, or Saigon’s Dong Khoi district) for one reason: six suits, three days, no problem. It’s not uncommon for a foreigner to walk into a tailor with Pinterest screenshots or old favorites in hand and walk out 48 hours later with a full custom wardrobe. Many opt for full suit packages that include shirts, jackets, trousers, and even overcoats — all handcrafted to fit.
What does it cost?
Depending on the fabric (linen, wool, cashmere blends, or even Vietnamese silk), a fully custom men’s suit can range from $120 to $350 USD. A shirt starts around $20–30. For women’s tailoring: dresses, skirts, suits, prices are similar, with most full outfits running under $100. Compared to Western tailoring or designer brands, the value is unbeatable, and often includes multiple fittings and lifetime adjustments if you return.
The Ao Dài: Indigenous Elegance Meets Tailoring Precision
No history of Vietnamese tailoring is complete without the ao dài, Vietnam’s iconic national garment. Worn by women and men, the ao dài is a long, fitted tunic worn over pants, requiring a tailor’s keen understanding of body form, balance, and fabric flow.
Tailoring an ao dài is a delicate process: measurements must be exact, and the fabric — often silk or brocade — must drape gracefully. The ao dài represents Vietnam’s native tailoring aesthetic: elegant, modest, and highly personalized. Its resurgence in modern fashion runways and formal events underscores the continuing importance of bespoke work.
Tailoring Under Socialism
After the fall of Saigon in 1975 and the reunification of Vietnam under communist rule, Western-style tailoring faced a sharp decline. The centrally planned economy emphasized uniformity over individuality — quite literally, with the introduction of standardized clothing and restrictions on luxury goods.
However, tailors adapted. They shifted focus to school uniforms, military wear, and domestic clothing. Some even went underground, discreetly tailoring suits for diplomats, foreign visitors, or the elite.
Post-Đổi Mới Revival and Globalization
Vietnam’s 1986 economic reforms — known as Đổi Mới — reopened the country to global markets. With this shift came a renewed demand for tailored clothing, especially from overseas Vietnamese (Việt Kiều), expats, and tourists.
Tailoring hubs like Hanoi’s Cửa Đông Street, Saigon’s District 1, and Hội An flourished. Artisans began blending old-school handcraftsmanship with modern silhouettes: Neapolitan shoulders, slim lapels, and minimalist finishes. Vietnam also became a manufacturing powerhouse, supplying suits to major Western labels — yet its bespoke sector remained a proudly local affair.
The Contemporary Scene: Craft Meets Cool
Today, Vietnam’s bespoke tailoring is entering a new era. Young designers and tailors are reimagining the trade — not just as a tradition but as an artistic and entrepreneurial endeavor. Homegrown labels like The May Concept, Dung Tailor, and Sir Tailor cater to a new generation: tech-savvy, style-conscious, and drawn to slow fashion.
What makes Vietnamese tailoring special in 2025? Three things:
- Customization at speed
- Affordable luxury
- Deep respect for both Western and Vietnamese aesthetics
In an age of AI-generated fast fashion, Vietnam’s tailors remind us of the enduring power of human hands, sharp shears, and quiet artistry.
